The Evolution of De Beers Alchemist Of Light Collection


De Beers was one of the companies to unveil its new High Jewelry Collection at the Paris Couture Shows, first in January and then in July 2022. They showed two collections in January and another five in July, alongside renowned companies such as Cartier, Chaumet, Boucheron, Chanel High Jewelry and more.

The collection entitled Alchemist of Light responds to exactly that: the different ways in which light reflects, refracts, radiates and creates texture when it bounces off diamonds and precious metals. It shows how light creates different moods from sunrise to sunset, from the magic of the evening sky to the geometry of optical illusions. There are 45 designs in the collection with different themes; each is a masterpiece of form and function, technology and the search for durable and most beautiful diamonds.

Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewelers explains: “This collection is imbued with a sublime fusion of art and science, precision and imagination, tradition and modernity. We understand and passionately care that our customers not only express their individuality through these wearable works of art, but also add another layer to the creative story. In that respect, our customers are true alchemists of light.”

Here are some pieces from some of the collection’s themes showcased during the July 2022 Couture Week, as described by Assimon:

“The design cue for our Ascending Shadows collection is a creative interpretation of how stepped diamond surfaces play dramatically with light and shadow. Pushing boundaries, this group contains seven pieces, architectural in form and striking in shade. The innovative use of pink, blue and green anodized titanium and aluminum creates surfaces that emphasize rare pink and gray diamonds, as well as green and brown-pink roughnesses. I am particularly obsessed with using new materials, vibrant colors and the innovative techniques of our jewelers to create these unique pieces.”

The midnight aura The group consists of five unique pieces, all inspired by green clouds of stardust in the dark sky. Here we have used black rhodium, which provides the perfect backdrop for a constellation of white round brilliant and princess cut diamonds. Some of these diamonds are innovatively set in cabochon cut green African chrysoprase. Its setting requires incredible skill and precision.”

She continues: “The necklace in this collection is precisely and delicately articulated so that it feels like fabric. It is set with 549 bezel-set white round brilliant and princess cut diamonds and forms a flexible mesh. This necklace features an extraordinary 20.57 carat pear-shaped white diamond from the De Beers Natural Works of Art collection. Versatility is essential when we design important pieces and it can be worn in three different ways: as a mesh collar with or without the diamond line or as a classic diamond line.

Frozen recording calls out ice and diamonds, sharing purity and beauty. This collection is inspired by the play of light through frozen rivers. Our six designs in this group shine with artistic brilliance and diamond expertise. As a first for De Beers, this set features rock crystal from Brazil. Its use is an intrinsic part of the layering aesthetic. It transitions into edges of white diamonds and shows how ice acquires greater light intensity as it gradually thaws to become more transparent at the edges. Three pieces contain exceptional diamonds discovered by De Beers in Botswana and part of our Natural Works of Art collection.”

She adds: “My favorite piece is the Frozen Capture Ear Cuff, as you see the diamonds embedded in rock crystal, fringed with subtly dripping marquise-shaped diamonds. It’s beautiful and looks like you’re wearing a piece of ice.

twilight reflection is inspired by a sunset that radiates a soft glow over the horizon. We created sensual and feminine pieces with our iconic Enchanted Lotus motif in the center. The choker is amazingly flexible and infused with a tactile quality. An assortment of lotus motifs hang from a beautiful 1.13 carat, fancy intense pink radiant diamond from the De Beers Natural Works of Art collection. The diamond can be detached and worn as a pendant on a custom necklace. The choker transforms into a pair of cool cuffs that are the perfect accessory from day to evening. One of the keys to this collection is versatility.”

Assimon concludes: “We wanted to offer pieces that can be worn in multiple ways, to suit different occasions and moods – and that always bring joy and enhance personal style.”



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